Please help!

If you read our article on POWDERPOST BEETLE CONTROL, you'll learn that freezing and heat treatments won't kill eggs so it's not an effective way to control active infestations of powderpost beetles. The only options you have would be to fumigate, inject the wood with JECTA GEL, dip the wood in BORACARE or do your own "fumigation" using some INSECT STRIPS. Here's a breakdown on what to expect regarding these treatment these options.

1. Fumigation via a pest service would be very costly (thousands of dollars) so I'm guessing this is not a viable option.
2. Jecta Gel injected to any exit holes or other "port" in exposed wood could do the job if you have enough holes to put the gel into.
3. Boracare "dip" would be the best way to go. No doubt the pieces would absorb enough product making them unlivable for the larvae.
4. Lastly, making your own "fumigation" tent is an option. To do this you'd place an insect strip in a thick plastic bag and seal it nice a tight. The air inside would be unusable by any insect and they'd die once hatched from their egg stage. The only limit to this treatment is that it would take months to complete because without knowing the species of beetle active, there is no telling how long it takes for eggs to gestate and hatch. To be safe, you'd need to wait at least 6 months. Most species hatch in 3 months or less but there are some that go for 3-9 months and some a year or longer (though these species are rare).

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Powderpost Beetle Article:  http://www.powderpostbeetles.com/powderpost-beetle-control

Jecta Gel:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/gel/jecta-gel-10-oz

Boracare:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/boracare-gal

Insect Strips:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/repellents/fumigant/hotshot-no-pest-strip

READ MORE ON POWDERPOST BEETLE CONTROL

I've been in many homes that are over 100 years old and in virtually every case I remember finding evidence of some type of wood infesting pest so is this need to be concerned or surprised? Probably not. I say this because if you think about it, there are two things you should immediately notice about this house. First, the structure is several hundred years old and it's still standing. This means it must have been built fairly well. Second, because it's this old, the odds that termites, powderpost beetles, carpenter ants, carpenter bees or some other pest got into some part of the home would have to be quite high (in other words, very likely). But what about your structural concerns?

No doubt these are legit and well founded. And as you've been advised, get an engineer to look at the home to see what he says. In the end I'm willing to wager that one of  two things that will happen with this structure. The first thing that might happen is if the damage is in fact significant, most any engineer would recommend getting it repaired. This could mean major replacement work but many times simply leaving the existing damaged wood in place and then adding load bearing members to the pre installed beams is all that will be needed. This is actually pretty common and happens all the time with old structures. In the end someone buys the home, gets the work done and lives happily ever after without the house falling down.

In the second option,  someone will buy the home with no repair being done. And even though the home is some 300 years old and has some damage, I'm willing to bet it will be around long after the buyer moves in and leaves planet earth! This is just based on previous experience so I can't be 100% sure. But whenever I'm in these old buildings, it becomes apparently clear they've settled, they've sustained damage over the years and no doubt they're in need of some repair work. All that being said, it's also clear if it's on the market and a bank is willing to write a note on it, the structure will probably be around for some time to come.

Lastly, no wood or structure is ever "beyond BORACARE" unless the owner or new owner intends on knocking it down and starting over. And with this home, the same would apply. So in this case, I see two option regarding a treatment.

The first option would be to leave it as is, based on an engineers inspection and clean bill of health and then after it's purchased, get it treated with Boracare just to be safe. The second option is to do some repair work first and during the work have it treated with Boracare. In both options treating with Boracare is what I recommend because it just make sense. Why risk letting any beetle or other pest a chance to continue living if in fact they're alive somewhere? Well, it doesn't. So if you buy the home, get it treated and be done with it. Remember, Boracare will not only control active pests, but it will help to prevent new ones from coming around as well as control mold and rot.

Good luck and here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Boracare:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/boracare-gal

Powderpost Beetle Article:  http://www.powderpostbeetles.com/powderpost-beetle-control

The good news is you acted promptly and removed the infected vase. The bad news is you don't know if any adult beetles left the vase, found a mate and then a prime location elsewhere in the home. As explained in our POWDERPOST BEETLE CONTROL ARTICLE, relocating adults will naturally target similar wood as that which they left. So if you have any "new" or "old" furniture that is close in species to the infected vase, it could very well become a target.

To protect any of these pieces, you'll need to treat as explained in our article. Either the BORACARE or the JECTA GEL should be able to handle the job. In most cases, the Boracare is the way to go – especially if the wood is unfinished and porous. Alternatively, if the wood is all sealed up with a finish that won't allow Boracare to penetrate, the Jecta Gel will have to be used. More information on these treatment options can be found in our article.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Powderpost Beetle Control:  http://www.powderpostbeetles.com/powderpost-beetle-control#furniture_beetle_treatments

Boracare:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/boracare-gal

Jecta Gel:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/gel/jecta-gel-10-oz

Thanks.

There is always a threat that neighboring populations of any insect can spread. This is especially true when the population is located outside. PINE BEETLES would be a good example of an insect that can easily move from one lot to another. That being said, POWDERPOST BEETLES are in general not likely to do so unless there are certain conditions in place which would allow for successful migrations. Here is the short list:

First, the species of beetle active in your neighbors house is most likely wood specific. That means it will probably need the same kind of wood in your home in order to succeed after migration. This can be a big part of why it's so hard for powderpost beetles to migrate.

Second, it will need access to getting outside in significant numbers. Many times the infestation is confined and emerging adults are not able to leave the structure where they're active. Emerging adults will have little time to find suitable wood and a mate. If they're not able to escape the originating house in a timely fashion, there is a high chance they'll just die out and not be able to propagate elsewhere.

Third, just what kind of "problem" do they have? For example, old damage from powderpost beetles can be a "serious problem". But it does not have to be "live" for it to be serious. You didn't mention if there are active beetles being seen in the home and this is the first way to identify if an immediate threat is present. If your neighbors are finding "piles of beetles" accumulating around exterior windows, the risk would be higher than normal. But if they've only spotted old exit holes and it's been labeled as powderpost beetles without actually seeing anything alive, the risk is nominal.

Lastly, the kind of wood involved has a lot to do with the odds of migrating beetles being successful at relocation. For example, if your neighbors purchased a wood cabinet or other piece of furniture that was made abroad and it's got the beetles, the odds are this species of wood isn't native or found locally let alone in your home. This would keep the risks minimized. But if the wood involved is cedar, oak, walnut or pine – just to name a few local species which I would classify as common here in the states – the odds increase that migrating beetles could move from one house to another.

In summary, these are some important variables you can weight when attempting to gauge whether or not there is a chance of any beetle migrating from their house to yours. In general I'd say the odds are low but I have seen this happen so it is most definitely a possibility.

Here is a direct link to our powderpost beetle article:

http://www.powderpostbeetles.com/powderpost-beetle-control

My wife and I own a wood frame house built in the 1840s in southwest Wisconsin. The basement is a hand dug stone and dirt floor. dark and moist. We recently began the process of digging the floor down to pour a cement floor and discovered that besides mold there is an existing infestation of powderpost beetles in the floor joists, kingbeam and even in the floor boards that were under old linoleum on the first floor. Would you recommend Boracare or Boracare with mold-care as a treatment? And what solution ratio would you recommend?

Once the floor is in we plan to install a dehumidifier.

Since you state there is active mold in the basement, I'd go with the BORACARE MOLDCARE to be sure the problem is addressed completely and thoroughly with one application. If the area was dry and showed no sign of mold, BORACARE by itself would be adequate. But when dealing with active mold, it's a bit of a gamble because you won't know for sure if you're effort to solve the moisture problem will work. I've seen it happen many times before where repair work isn't enough but since it can take a year or more to find out, the wood gets depreciated during this time and for obvious reasons this should be avoided. By going with Moldcare version, you'll have extra protection in place that can't hurt.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Boracare Moldcare:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/boracare-with-moldcare

Boracare:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/boracare-gal

Powderpost Beetle Control:  http://www.powderpostbeetles.com/powderpost-beetle-control#crawlspace_treatments

First, it sounds like you might have a misunderstanding about what kiln drying does for wood. True it will reduce the moisture level and in theory this is good for many reaons. However, this should not be confused with doing some kind of "pest control" to the wood. Many insects, including powderpost beetles, can withstand the kiln drying process. More importantly, it's the heat that does the killing here and not the reduction of moisture. In fact powderpost beetles can exist in wood with single digit moisture contents. There are many species which thrive in wood measuring just 8-10% moisture which is far below the 20% guideline most kiln drying processes attempt to reach. And though 15-20% is good for keeping away most insects, it won't thwart powderpost beetles. With this being stated, it's safe to say within a day or two of leaving the kiln, most any wood is immediately vulnerable to wood living organism's with one of the most popular found worldwide being the powderpost beetle.

Second, once this wood is out in the open, it's extra vulnerable to attack. So if you've been storing wood for any length of time out in the open it's safe to say this wood is a prime target when compared to other wood around it. Remember, most wood in the home is covered by sheet rock, paint, stain and other protective coverings. Attics and crawl spaces are the two most commonly infested areas as are wood floors but the vast majority of these problems are thought to have been active during when the wood used was first installed. In other words, the problem was there from the start and didn't arrive later. And of course log homes are common targets for powderpost beetles when left untreated but based on their size and proximity to where beetles live, it's no surprise.

But in the more traditional home, beetle problems only seem to happen when a few conditions exist. And since most beetles enter homes through door ways and windows, the targets out in the open are what they first find. So that means furniture and other exposed wood might be attacked but if it has a finish on it, chances are this wood doesn't appeal to powderpost beetles and in general it won't be luring any beetles into the home. But anything unfinished is a prime target and no doubt foraging beetles will smell it from far away. Once inside the home, they'll zero in on any stash and from there it's just a matter of whether or not the wood species is one they can process.

Which leads me to the current situation. From the information provided above, it's clear the wood from the barn you've been given has had some insect activity. And in a perfect world, it would be nice to know if any of the pieces still has current activity or if the holes you see are evidence of problems from the past. Unfortunately there is no practical way to tell if the wood is currently still active or not. No doubt if you were to witness a beetle drilling it's way out of a piece that would mean it's still active. And if you were to wrap the pieces in some clear poly nice and tight and monitored the inventory over time you might find some evidence of current activity in the form of new sawdust, powder or actual beetles moving under the tarp. But outside of these two methods of seeing evidence, there is no good way to tell unless you were to cut through the wood over and over scouring the wood grain for anything alive. And this is where we cross the line of being practical. For obvious reasons this is not a viable option.

So what can you do? Well, here are some suggestions. You could opt to store it alongside your current inventory and roll the dice. This would be the most risky. You could opt to store it there but whilst doing so you kept it wrapped up in clear poly so nothing could easily escape. And if anything did emerge from the wood, you'd stand a good chance of seeing the evidence inside the poly and know for sure it's got a problem. Another option is to wrap up the new wood and your old wood so both piles can be monitored. Remember, this wouldn't have to be done forever. If you wrap wood which is releasing adult beetles you'll usually see some evidence right away so it's not a permanent situation. Another option is to simply treat the new lumber with some BORACARE and be done with it. This would no doubt take care of anything inside the wood both insect and mold wise and in the end is the only "sure" way to know the wood is beetle free.

But in the end, it's really a matter of what makes you feel "okay" that should be done. Over the years of being in the pest control industry the one thing I've learned is there is no way I can tell what will give people peace of mind. And this is one of those cases where it's really up to the individual. No doubt this new lumber represents a threat to your current wood inventory and the surrounding area. And like any other risk or threat we all deal with day in and day out throughout life, the decision on what course of action to take is a personal matter. Hopefully I've outlined some viable options that will enable you to make a sound decision.

More on Powderpost Beetle Control:  http://www.powderpostbeetles.com/powderpost-beetle-control

Boracare:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page52.html

This is a tough one. No doubt fumigation would be the "cleanest" method. But as our POWDERPOST BEETLE CONTROL article explains, this is very expensive and generally not a viable option since it will cost thousands of dollars. Fortunately BORACARE can handle the problem fine if you have access to all the wood framing of the couch. Another product known as JECTA GEL can also be used. Since the Boracare is usually more thorough and faster acting, we like to use it whenever possible but using it in tandem with Jecta Gel will provide just as good of results. The real key is getting uniform coverage and just how much of the wood used in the couch you'll have access to will determine if Boracare alone can tackle the problem or if Jecta Gel will be needed as well.

To see if you can use nothing but Boracare, you can start by turning the piece upside down to get a handle on how much of the wood you can reach from underneath. If you're able to access at least one side of all the framing wood used to construct the piece, chances are high you'll be able to hand paint the framing wood with Boracare. This will no doubt take more time compared to spraying but the painting process can be done in a controlled fashion that will all but eliminate any mess. We recommend going over all the wood 3-4 times to insure you get enough Boracare applied and sometimes even more if the wood is more than 3 inches thick.

The second way is to remove any fabric that might be obstructing the treatment and blocking you from reaching the bare wood. In most cases coverings can be strategically cut and then peeled back in a way to expose the wood underneath. Once exposed it can be painted with Boracare. In some cases the fabric of the couch might be old and worn enough to consider cutting it off altogether. Following the treatment, you can then reupholster it as desired. This would clearly be more labor intensive compared to the first option and in cases where fabric will be replaced, definitely more costly. But depending on the value of the piece it could make a lot of sense to handle it this way.

The third option is to use Boracare on as much of the exposed wood as you can access and then treat the other sections with the Jecta Gel mentioned above. Jecta Gel is slow to penetrate compared to Boracare but it does a great job of getting deep penetration via holes you would need to drill throughout the framing. When properly placed, these holes will then supply Jecta Gel throughout the grain of the wood. This is accomplished by pumping Jecta Gel into the holes and then capping them off to insure the gel remains. Over time it will soak through and through making the wood unusable by any larvae stages of the powderpost beetles. In most cases, this treatment is done from underneath the piece to avoid any cosmetic damage to the fabric and wood finish of the piece. And keep in mind it will take longer for the active to permeate throughout the wood. But in the end it can prove to be just as effective as using Boracare alone.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Powderpost Beetle Control:  http://www.powderpostbeetles.com/powderpost-beetle-control

Boracare:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page52.html

Jecta Gel:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page156.html

If you read through our POWDERPOST BEETLE CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll learn this beetle will lay eggs which hatch small larvae that eat wood as they grow. The larvae can feed for long periods of time depending on many variables. Once they mature and enter the pupal stage of development, they can lay dormant indefinitely and will sometimes not emerge for many years. When they emerge they drill out of the wood creating exit holes which are one of the first signs commonly seen on infested wood. From your message above it sounds as though that's what you're seeing on this buffet table. As for a "gestation period"; I'm guessing you mean time from egg to adult? Well, that can range from a month or two right on up to 5-10 years depending on the species of beetle. As our article explains, there are over 100,000 species of this beetle worldwide and they all have a wide time range to develop depending on many factors which can both hinder or speed up the process.

You also mention you've asked a service company to treat but "there is nothing they can do"? That doesn't make any sense. I know for a fact that Orkin treats for Powderpost Beetles and they even offer fumigation services so it sounds like there has been some kind of misunderstanding on your part. At this time I suggest you give them another call or try some other local companies if you wish to get the piece treated by a professional. Be forewarned it can get quite expensive to have this done and in the end I'm sure you'll find getting some BORACARE and treating the problem yourself will be a lot less costly. And based on what you said about it being "eaten up", it sounds like you might be doing some cosmetic work to cover up all the exit holes you're finding. If that's true, the finish will probably need to be removed and reapplied and if you plan on doing this, it would be a great time to apply the Boracare since it can only work on raw or unfinished wood.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Powderpost Beetle Control Article:  http://www.powderpostbeetles.com/powderpost-beetle-control

Boracare:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page52.html

Should I let this be a showstopper for buying the property is what I'm wondering.  I already knew that I had to tear down walls, ceilings and take up floors to rehab it back to it's log cabin days. So there was already planned to be plenty of elbow grease in this project. I just don't know enough even after reading the articles to determine when should the powderpost damage cross the line to be bad enough to say, STOP, don't purchase.  Any advice on things to check so that I make an intelligent call on this, versus just a reactionary call, would be appreciated.  Part of me says, hmm been there since 1840 and still standing, but the other part of me says… hmmm what am I letting myself in for.

As our POWDERPOST BEETLE ARTICLE explains, it's sometimes very hard to say for sure whether visible damage or even powderpost beetle dust is being caused by an active infestation. In fact, any structure that's been around since 1840 would almost certainly show some signs of a prior infestation. And any pest control company doing an inspection would no doubt find something to make them become leery of guaranteeing the structure as being pest free when the building has been standing this long. What all this means is that it's highly likely any company doing an inspection would not feel confident clearing it of pests without doing some kind of treatment so I'm pretty there will be a job done whether it's active or not. This is more for the protection of the institution writing the mortgage on the house than anyone else because obviously they have a vested interest in the structure and they need to know it's pest free. So in the end, does it really matter if it's live or not?

I ask this because if the building is to be financed, it will most likely have to undergo some kind of treatment. But to me the big question is will it be a good treatment and who will pay for it? Additionally, the current condition of the structure is what you should really be looking at and if you don't feel confident in determining whether it's okay or not, then get an engineer in there to see if the structural members of the building are safe, sound and damage free. Cosmetic damage can usually be fixed and corrected by anyone without a lot of cost. But if the building has a lot of structural issues with sill plate or main girders needing to be replaced, the costs for repair can be astronomical and to me, that would be when I would start thinking about walking away.

So for now, I say get an engineer in there who can tell you the current condition of the building. If they feel it's okay and they can't see any major problems or concerns, I'd then move to on to phase two of the process. And phase two would be getting the structure treated. To me, this cost should be mostly if not entirely absorbed by the seller. You see, any wood infesting beetle, termite or other wood destroying organism found in a structure is reason enough to have it treated. More importantly, once this has been reported, it will become a "pre existing condition" and something the seller will have to disclose to anyone interested in purchasing the property or else risk legal ramifications. That means they will have to get it treated at one point or another if they want to sell it and the sooner they do, the less of a loss they'll have to absorb.

More importantly, if the building is in good shape and it receives a good treatment, there is no reason to doubt it shouldn't be able to last another 150 yrs + so why shouldn't you buy it? Of course, in the end it really becomes a matter of what you are personally content or comfortable accepting as far as the "risk" involved so I can't tell you one way or the other. But I do know if a reputable company treats it with BORACARE, there is no reason why the problem can't be corrected and the cabin become beetle free. And remember this: any home can get termites or a powderpost beetle infestation and it's not dependent on the age of the home. In other words, there is always a "risk" of these kind of problems when you own a home. The good news is there are ways to fix the problem and these are tried and true methods that really work.

So my advise is make your decision on what you're comfortable with accepting. As I see it, if the structure is inspected by an engineering firm and considered fine with little to no significant damage, then I'd consider getting it if the seller is willing to pay for most if not all of the treatment needed to get it beetle free. And who's to say you can't do a little treatment yourself later on when you move in and start renovating? In fact this is usually a great time to get the house fully protected and to make sure all areas are treated. In the end, if you approach the problem directly, I'm positive you can both salvage the structure and keep it pest free.

Hope this helps! And here are some direct links to the products and information mentioned above:

Powderpost Beetle Control Article:  http://www.powderpostbeetles.com/powderpost-beetle-control

Boracare:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page52.html