I have a good amount of lumber, mostly cherry and walnut, that is infested with powder post beetles. I'm looking into treatment both professional and DIY methods. I am familiar with Boracare and Timbor, but have heard through the grape vine about funimagtion?? Is this a real possibility and does it work? Please email or call me with info, advice or any additional information or suggestions! Thank you.

Fumigation is definitely an option. It's highly effective, fast to get done and for many situations the best way to go. However, it's very expensive. I'm sure if you call around to local service companies that do fumigation, you'll quickly find out that this kind of treatment routinely costs thousands. To tent a house is usually $10,000 and up. For small "container jobs", it can still cost several thousand dollars. If the lumber is loose quantities of wood we're talking about here, you'd probably have them done via a container fumigation. This is where the wood is moved into a semi type holding container where the process can be done safely. The container essentially keeps the material inside so there is no "tenting" needed.

Additionally, the fumigation treatment itself does not provide any residual. That means immediately after you remove the wood and bring it back to storage, it will be subject to reinfestation. For this reason alone many people will forego fumigating and instead choose a long lasting product like BORACARE and TIMBOR.

So since Boracare and Timbor can last several years, which do you use? There are two main things to consider regarding their differences. As explained in our POWDERPOST BEETLE CONTROL ARTICLE, Timbor doesn't penetrate wood so it should not be used to control any current or active infestation. That means if in fact you have live powder post beetles, you'll need to use the Boracare.

Another advantage Boracare has over Timbor is that it will penetrate up to 4 inches so you can treat logs that are 6-8 inches wide and still get positive results. And since the application can last several years, the wood will be protected for a long time after the treatment. Lastly, Boracare will absorb quickly and following the treatment, there is no clue anything was every used. On the other hand, Timbor will leave a white powdery residue that will be noticeable and unsightly. For fine hardwood like you mentioned I would not use Timbor.

Hope this helps and if you still have questioins, give us a call toll free. Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Boracare:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/boracare-gal

Timbor:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/wettable-powder/timbor

Powderpost Beetle Control:  http://www.powderpostbeetles.com/powderpost-beetle-control

My question – what number constitute an infestation? Will these few die off on its own? plus we have not been able to find the source, so it's been baffling to know where to begin. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

To answer your questions; no number and yes. In other words, no number constitutes an infestation. For example, I've been in homes that have hundreds seen daily but in fact they don't have an active infestation. Conversely I've been in homes where no live beetles have been found but in fact they had an infestation. Based on this information, there is no way you can tell from how many you're seeing if you have an active infestation or not.

Now will they die off by their own? Yes. But why is this important? As explained in our POWDERPOST BEETLE CONTROL ARTICLE, adults want to mate and lay eggs and that's it. After they lay eggs they typically die but the key here is the fact they can lay eggs. So if you have a home or items in the home that are able to sustain PPB young, you should be concerned about whether this is in fact happening and not about whether the adults will be dying because they most certainly will.

As for advice, I have a few suggestions. First and foremost, make sure what you're seeing is in fact PPB. I've dealt with many instances where PPB were thought to exist but in fact they didn't. To know for sure, get an independent agent to identify them. Do this by bringing him/her some samples. Your local extension agent should be able to do this accurately and since they have no vested interest one way or the other, they should prove trustworthy regarding their assessment of the sample. There are at least 2-3 other "beetles" that look very similar to PPB and all of these are commonly mistaken for one another.

Next, look through the home for any little exit holes from which these guys might be leaving. Anything made from wood should be inspected. This includes staircases, wood floors, furniture, molding, toys, cabinets, etc. You should also look outside. Many times there are nearby trees or outside furniture which can harbor these beetles and from this nest location many can release. Inevitably, some will end up inside any nearby home. This is especially true in the fall and spring when homes typically have windows open and direct pathways to inside living spaces like where you're finding them.

And since you mentioned you started seeing them as long ago as 8 months, that would put the calendar back to February of this year. Typically this is a cold time of year and if where you reside is from the mid to northern part of the US, seeing adults live during the winter would tell me you most likely have an inside nest site. But if it was really in the spring, like April or May, then they could be coming from the outside because by then it would be warm enough outside for them to be active.

In summary, what you need to do now is twofold. First, make sure what you're seeing is in fact Powderpost Beetles. Second, search diligently for any sign of exit holes in wood that exists in the home, on the home or close to the home outside. Finding any site that appears to have talc like powder leaking out of cracks or crevices and/or any small holes visible would be good indicators of activity and this could turn out to be the source of what you're seeing if in fact they are PPB. Once your beetle id is known for sure and the local area thoroughly inspected, give us a call if you need further help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290.

Powderpost Beetle Article:  http://www.powderpostbeetles.com/powderpost-beetle-control

If the wood is untreated and able to readily accept and absorb water, you'll be able to use the BORACARE listed in our POWDERPOST BEETLE CONTROL article. This product is odorless and overall a relatively safe powderpost beetle control product.

But if the wood is finished and not able to absorb water, you'll need to consider one of the other options we have listed in the article.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Boracare:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/boracare-gal

Powderpost Beetle Control:  http://www.powderpostbeetles.com/powderpost-beetle-control

First, you are right in that you will need to remove the polyurethane first from the cedar bed and chairs in order to allow the BORACARE treatment to penetrate. Second, it's almost always a sure thing that the thinner the wood being treated, the better your application will penetrate. But could you treat the logs without having the mill them first? Absolutely.

As a general rule, Boracare will penetrate through 4" well so anything wider than 8" will be risky even if you treat from all sides. That being said, if you are sure the logs are free of beetles to start with, this probably won't matter.

Boracare:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/boracare-gal

Manzanita trees are susceptible to bark beetles as well as many species of Powder Post Beetles. And if it's stored out in the open, it's more likely to get infested. I suggest you keep it inside to prevent foraging insects from finding it. But if you insist on keeping it outside, treating it with BORACARE will help to keep it mold and insect free.

I would do one of three things. It would all depend on the size, shape and finish of the item. Since you didn't provide details regarding any of these variables, I'll list all three suggestions based on general guidelines which I'll include. From this information you should be able to "fit" the best treatment option and proceed with a course of action.

If the piece is mostly unfinished and likely to absorb water, I'd go with the standard BORACARE treatment. It would no doubt be the most efficient, thorough and complete solution.

If the piece is finished on more than one side making it more difficult to use the Boracare, I'd consider the JECTA GEL.

Lastly, if the piece is thin, finished and mostly untreatable using either of the above options, I'd go for the "fumigation" approach. If the piece is large and worth a lot of money, paying a professional would be a viable option. But if the piece is small, say smaller than the average refrigerator, I'd consider getting a PEST STRIP and fumigating it yourself. You'll have to seal up the piece in plastic nice and tight along with the Pest Strip. Next, you'll need to leave it in there for a week at a time and lastly, you'll need to do the treatment every two months for a year to insure you knock out all remnants of the problem. But if you stay the course you should be able to kill all active stages and chances are high they'll hatch out at some point over the course of a year. In theory you should get through all that inhabit the piece and get it pest free using this method.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Boracare:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page52.html

Jecta Gel:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page156.html

Pest Strip:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page307.html

Furniture Treating:  http://www.powderpostbeetles.com/powderpost-beetle-control#furniture_beetle_treatments

First, I know the list of companies that fumigate for powder post beetles in the state of Georgia is in fact a short list. However, I'm not sure there is only one company that will perform this service. To find out for sure, give the department of pesticides a call at 404-656-4958. they're based in Atlanta and I'm sure they have a referral list readily available.

Second, if you take some time to read through our POWDER POST BEETLE CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll learn there is in fact alternative options for treating wood infested with this pest. One of the more common treatment options involves spraying a product called BORACARE and if you expand your search of "companies to hire" to parameters that include using Boracare, I expect you'll find a much bigger list of contractors available for hire. I also think you'll find the cost to be substantially less compared to fumigating.

Lastly, if you're so inclined to do the work on your own, you can choose to apply the Boracare yourself and in the end, save the most money. At this time Boracare would be your best option if you want to treat yourself and based on the size of the cabin involved, I'm sure the cost and effort would be manageable. Call us for more details if you wish to pursue this option; we can be reached at 1-800-877-7290.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Powder Post Beetle Control Article:  http://www.powderpostbeetles.com/powderpost-beetle-control

Boracare:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page52.html

If you read the wood floor section of our POWDER POST BEETLE CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll learn there are a couple of options available to get control of a local infestation. To answer your last question first: no, a systemic like you've used on trees will not work on wood flooring. The main reason is that a systemic is carried through a tree or plant via the sap of the vegetation. The BORACARE or JECTA GEL listed in our article penetrates because it has special solvents in the mix which enable it to perform this way.

Regarding your question about whether or not you still have them; there really isn't any sure fire way to know. In fact I've seen cases where they're coming out in the open and their sawdust is clearly evident. This is an easy one to figure out. But many times they release or exit in areas you cannot see and can do this for years without detection. And then there are the cases where activity dries up and all the living beetles die but years later damaged wood is detected or found. In this scenario most people wonder if it's new or active and again, that can be a tough bit of information to ascertain so the accepted way to deal with it is to assume it's active unless you've treated the problem before in the past.

In summary, if the flooring hasn't been treated before, I suggest you either hire the first company who quoted you or get some Boracare/Jecta Gel and do the work yourself.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Powder Post Beetle Control Article:  http://www.powderpostbeetles.com/powderpost-beetle-control#wood_floor_beetle_treatment

Boracare:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page52.html

Jecta Gel:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page156.html

If you read through our POWDER POST BEETLE CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll learn that in fact one of the more common ways to treat for wood destroying pests like powder post beetles is to "tent" and fumigate the infested structure. So to answer your question about whether or not this option is "realistic"; the answer is yes. Tenting and fumigation is a very effective way to kill what's active and in theory, eradicate the problem. From the service companies view, it's smart for two main reasons. 1) It's a lot of work for their employees with a large price tag and 2), it's the best way for them to eliminate the risk of the beetles appearing elsewhere in the structure. Remember, if they don't do a good treatment and the beetles are found somewhere else in the structure, chances are high their customer will be upset. Tenting and fumigation tends to minimize such complaint calls and from a liability perspective, a smart way to handle such treatments. But due to the extreme cost of the process, it's not always the most practical for the customer. It sounds like this is the case regarding your church.

Fortunately there are options. One of the best is the BORACARE we recommend throughout our article. Boracare both penetrates wood real well and lasts for many years making it ideally suited for wood destroying pests. A good treatment would no doubt kill off the active larvae in the wood you treat as well as protect it for many years from reinfestation. But remember the one drawback of using Boracare is that only the wood you treat will be protected. In most cases we suggest treating as much of the structure as possible and in this case I would recommend the same. The treatment itself isn't that costly; it's really the labor involved that can take both time and patience. But when it comes to saving cash, this would be one of the best ways your church could save a huge expense and help to protect their structure for many, many years to come.

Give us a call if you need to discuss how much product you might need to use or if you have any other question. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Powder Post Beetle Article:  http://www.powderpostbeetles.com/powderpost-beetle-control

Boracare:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page52.html

First, it's not likely your entire house is "completely infested" so you can relax. But if you read our POWDERPOST BEETLE CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll learn this pest won't magically leave and go away unless you do some treating. BORACARE would in fact be the way to go and based on your description of the problem, I would advise you treat ASAP to insure the hutch doesn't continue to sustain any more damage.

As our article explains, the beetles leaving are going to try and mate to lay eggs so there is always a risk of new activity starting elsewhere. But the two things you didn't mention was if the beetles were appearing in other areas of the home and if the log home is made with oak like the hutch. My guess is the bulk of the beetles you're seeing are dead and most of any that are still alive are close to the hutch. I'm also going to guess your log home isn't made from oak but I have seen some built with this hardwood so it does happen. The point here is that the beetles leaving your hutch would be seeking hardwood and unless you've got a lot of other pieces located in the home made with oak, the odds are low that a new population will start up elsewhere.

At this point I suggest you treat with the Boracare and focus your attention on the hutch. A good couple of coats and you should be able to knock out the current infestation thus preserving the piece for a good long time and prevent these ppbeetles from spreading elsewhere.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Powderpost Beetle Contrl:  http://www.powderpostbeetles.com/powderpost-beetle-control

Boracare:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page52.html