I really appreciate the info you shared on these insects. I receive letters of thanks all the time from people who have visited my real estate site and learned something, so it's nice I have someplace to go to learn about something I lack knowledge in. Great article, thorough, well written and it answered all of my questions. What did we ever do before the Internet?
Tom Grisak
Thanks for the great comments. I learned a long time ago that helping people get what they want makes my own success easy to achieve and with that
ideology, have run a successful retail/mail order business for the past 20 years. The internet definitely enabled us to reach a larger crowd when it started but regardless, we still have to provide accurate and easy to digest information. Hopefully we're able to meet these goals and based on our continued success, we must be doing something right.
jonathan
Referenced Article: http://www.powderpostbeetles.com/powderpost-beetle-control
Filed under beetle questions by 
Dear Jonathan
Our house was built in 1915 and the beams in the crawl space have holes of powder post beetles .We are in Ontario.
I put my finger on these beams and they seems solid still.
If I spray with the boracare do you think these beams could resist another 10 years?
But I found a 4×4 completely transformed in dust is like sawdust- is like plaster if I push the finger there is crumbling. I do not know what can be.
please help with a comment.
thanks
First, you don't state if you think the damage is currently active or if it's old damage you are now noticing. This is actually quite common. In other words, the beam could have had an insect infestation some time ago. Maybe 50 or more years ago. At some point the insects died and the wood has held together without anyone noticing the extent of which it had been consumed till now. I have seen this happen many times so it's not unusual.
But if you think there is activity or are unsure if it's active or not, a treatment could be warranted. The first thing I would do, however, would be to determine if the wood which is badly damaged is actually important or not. In other words, is it load bearing or important to the structural integrity of the house? If not, then no replacement may be needed. But if it's taking weight – like a sill plate or a floor joist – it could very well be important enough to either replace or reinforce. If you are not able to make this determination yourself, you need to get the advice from someone that can. Once this is known, you can then decide if treating with the BORACARE would make sense.
If the wood isn't important and if damage is limited to a small section, I would recommend treating it to insure there isn't anything alive causing more damage. As explained in our POWDERPOST BEETLE ARTICLE, there are many wood destroying insects which can go unnoticed for long periods of time. Boracare deals well with these organisms and when applied right can provide long term protection against a wide range of pests.
But if the wood is important structurally and will have to be replaced, it would make no sense to treat it. I would then consider protecting the other local infrastructure depending largely on what was exposed when any work was to be done. This way if live insects were detected, you could proceed confidently knowing for sure what you were treating and with a direct purpose of making sure they could not survive. But without this knowledge, it's hard to make an exact determination right now.
So in summary, I'd say to get another opinion if you're uncertain as to the extent of the damage, whether it's currently active or old, and whether the wood damaged is actually important structurally. If the damage is significant and from old activity, there could very well be nothing alive right now. More importantly, if the wood damaged isn't important to the structure, it could very well be ignored. But if you have reason to believe there is something alive now in the wood and that you might have to have some repairs done, a treatment could be warranted to make sure this doesn't continue. Give us a call if you need some help determining what to do. As you can tell from my response, it is hard for me to make an exact determination since there are so many choices and variables involved. But if you get to talk with one of our in house specialist, chances are we'll be able to further determine a course of action that would make sense to follow.
jonathan
Filed under wood beams by
How's it going? I live in western North Carolina. I cut down a bunch of big eastern white pines off of my property last winter. I am currently having them sawed at a local sawmill to use in my house. Most of them are going to be used as exposed rafters in the ceiling and as floor joists. The sizes vary from 4" x 8" to 6" x 12". There was some sign of bark beetles on some of the trees. I am concerned with the bark beetles and other bores that might be in the sawn beams. The beams will be air dryed. Do I need to worry with any control since all the bark will be off? What kind of chemicals are available to spray or roll onto the beams to control any problems I might have? I do have a commercial pesticide license and can buy most any product. Any advice or help you can give me will be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time. I look forward to hearing back from you.
Good questions J. since rough cut wood will many times conceal all kinds of insects. Bark beetles are usually easy to see but other pests like CARPENTER BEES, CARPENTER ANTS, POWDERPOST BEETLES, BARK BEETLES and even TERMITES can be present. Pine isn't normally home to Powderpost beetles but there are some other small beetle species which like it so the list of potential problem pests is quite long for White Pine to say the least. Regardless, it's easy to miss some activity any one tree may have since so many pests could be attracted to it. For this reason it makes sense to do some preventive treatment prior to the installation. This is especially true when the wood is to be kept large in size and diameter. Many pests will burrow deep into the timber, far beyond where Bark Beetles live, and are difficult to see or identify. Wood which is to be kept larger than 2×4's can easily conceal significant insect activity.
The good news is that products like BORACARE make safeguarding and protecting large wood possible. And by treating logs ahead of time, one can avoid a lot of hassle before the problem spreads. This unique product works so well because it penetrates wood getting deep down to the heart of the log where chewing and eating larva can do real damage. As explained in our POWDERPOST BEETLE CONTROL ARTICLE, it's not uncommon for different species of insects to live deep in the wood waiting to emerge when conditions get right. This might not be for years after the installation but during this time they could be doing all kinds of damage and destruction.
To avoid this happening, treat all rough cut lumber with BORACARE. It's easy to use as our video demonstrates but more importantly, once applied insects and destructive wood fungi won't stand a chance. Since this lumber is to be used inside, I'm sure one treatment will last at least 5-10 years. This will both safeguard it from future problems and be sure to knock out anything active at the time of the treatment. Once allowed to dry 48-72 hours, all treated lumber can be further processed and installed. True it takes longer to completely cure but you can handle and process the wood earlier if need be. Otherwise letting it sit for several weeks would be find too. The point is getting it installed insect free and well treated would be smart. We deal with so many cases where it's too late and the homeowner is confronted with some horrific options due to complex construction, the size of the lumber, etc. The bottom line is an ounce of prevention can go a long way here for sure.
Give us a call on our toll free 1-800-877-7290 for further details or to answer any of your questions but the videos we have posted combined with the detailed directions should be enough to get you treating without delay. Since you intend on "air drying" the finished wood, this fits in perfect with what one would do when using this product anyway.
Jonathan www.bugspray.comFiled under beetles by
DEAR JONATHAN:
I AM READING AND STUDYING YOUR INFORMATION SHEET ON MOLD, MILDEW, DECAY FUNGUS, ETC.
I NEED HELP, HOWEVER, UNDERSTANDING WHAT CONDITIONS OF MOLD, MILDEW, DECAY FUNGUS, ETC. REQUIRE PLAIN BORACARE AND WHICH NEED BORACARE WITH MOLD CARE. PLEASE ADVISE.
THANKS…..
This is a great question and one we get asked a lot. As explained in our POWDERPOST BEETLE CONTROL article, Boracare is a unique product that penetrates wood and once inside the "grain", helps to prevent decay fungus and insect damage. Since wood can be infested by such a wide range of insects, it was determined many years ago that a product which would penetrate through and through the cellulose would work best. As expected, wood treated thoroughly with Boracare may enjoy less attention and attack from wood seeking pests like termites, powderpost beetles and old house borers.
But in recent years there has been a rise in damage due to a new predator: decay fungi and mold. Decay mold and fungus has proven it too can take advantage of vulnerable timber used in home construction. And though the original BORACARE formulation can help prevent the establishment of such fungus, the makers of the product felt they could do better. BORACARE WITH MOLDCARE was then brought to market. With more additives that target the surface of the wood, Boracare Moldcare will both protect the inside and outside of cellulose like nothing on the market.
So to answer your question, if you're treating an attic or second level space in the home for powderpost beetles where it's dry, original Boracare will be more than adequate for the job. But if you plan on treating a crawl space or outside structure that is prone to being exposed to high levels of moisture, Boracare Moldcare would be the best option. Applied the same way with the same tools, there is little you'll do differently to apply either product. But when it comes to long term control and mold prevention, Boracare Moldcare will prove to be the better product overall. Hope this helps understand the difference between the two and remember, if you have any question about these or other pesticide products, just pick up the phone and give us a call on our toll free 1-800-877-7290.
Jonathan www.bugspray.comFiled under boracare moldcare by
we have an evergreen that is dead & has been cut down. is there any way to use the old wood? we thought it it would be nice to make something out of it. but it does still have some live activity. we are seeing bore holes & sawdust. is it worth saving or not? Thanks.
This is entirely up to you. The wood definitely can be purged of all insect activity if that's what you're asking. Once rough cut, you could treat it will some BORACARE and let it cure for a few months. If done properly, the boring larvae would surely die and the Boracare should be able to provide protection for several years to come. But the real question is two fold; is the wood damaged so badly that it's not practical to use and is it even worth the time and effort to make it reusable?
The first consideration is a tough one. Many people like the way insect damaged wood looks. They feel the boring pests help to give the wood a certain character and presence which for some living environments is a desirable feature. But clearly it can get to a point where the damage is so extreme the wood is not able to function structurally. This you can generally ascertain upon the initial processing of the tree. At that time you can tell how badly it's been infested, how much damage the wood boring pests have done and whether or not what is left of the tree can be used for your project.
The second thing to consider is whether or not the wood is even worth the cost to make it usable. Remember, Boracare will cost as will your time and effort to do the treatment. Again, if there is a lot of wood and it has a certain look you desire, it can be saved. But in the end, only you can make this judgment call. And don't be afraid to give us a call if you'd like to discuss this further; our toll free is 1-800-877-7290.
Filed under evergreens by
Greetings: I was wondering if you folks could assist me regarding some “bugs” that have infested some furniture of ours.
We recently purchased a set of very rustic Hickory wood furniture that has evidence of some sort of infestation. We haven’t seen any bugs, but there is evidence of them as there are fine sawdust particles that are trailing down the legs of the stools. I have seen termite feces before and this is a much finer, smaller particle wood dust. I should add that the dust seems to originate somewhere in the bark (as the bark was left on the legs of the table and the four stools). As a result, a neighbor of ours thought that it might be a bark beetle, which makes sense. We thought that we’d check with you to get your input and recommendations for eradication.
No doubt you have some type of powderpost beetle active in this furniture. Hickory is a common hardwood that can sustain this pest and the fine sawdust particles you describe are a clear indicator of what's currently active and eating away at the furniture. I suggest you review our online POWDERPOST BEETLE CONTROL article for details about this pest if you'd like to learn more about this destructive wood boring insect.
There is also a HOW TO TREAT FURNITURE section which lists how you can control this problem yourself which in the long run, is probably the best option given where the beetles are active. Most people hope they can just fumigate the pieces which in fact can be done. But it's both costly and does not provide any type of residual so the wood is prone to reinfestation. Conversesly, doing a little extra work using the products we have listed in our article will provide a long term remedy to this destructive pest.
If you have further questions or concerns, give us a call on our toll free 1-800-877-7290. Powderpost beetles are a destructive pest and like termites, literally eat the wood so you don't want them lingering for any length of time.
Filed under powdery sawdust by
Our home is over 30 years old and we have never seen any evidence of Powderpost Beetles. We are considering renewing a Powderpost Beetle service contract (covers inspection and retreatment) that we have had for years but wonder if it makes sense to do so. With the information you provide and the products now available, it sounds like we could do this ourselves and save $150 + per year. Could you provide any advice for us? Thank you.
In this day and age, it's smart to take a close look at recurring contracts and service agreements. I believe the best way to view these costs is to compare them to other forms of "insurance". For some people, they can't get enough insurance. It buys them peace of mind and with it a comfort making the cost worth the price. But still the question must be asked: do I really need this extra protection?
When it comes to pest control contracts, the decision making process can get extra cloudy and mired with uncertainty. Just what is the relative risk for any one pest? Wood destroying insects like termites, carpenter ants and powderpost beetles are all capable of doing damage in most any home. This damage can many times go unnoticed enabling it to accumulate in size. For this reason many service companies offer long term contracts. These contracts offer a way to avoid costly repairs should a problem reappear. In theory they should also help to catch problems sooner rather than later since you will have a "fresh" set of eyes inspecting the property from year to year if you keep the contract current. If the inspection is being done by a knowledgeable expert, they can many times identify structural issues which can be fixed before they lead to further problems. Since a good home inspection can cost several hundred dollars, it would seem as though the $150.00 annual renewal you listed above is well worth the cost.
So in summary, a good starting point to this decision can stem from the annual inspection itself. If you feel you are getting a good look over and are comfortable with the "protection" your contract provides, it may be worth keeping it current. This would certainly be true if you plan on selling the house in the coming months or if there is a "history" of powderpost beetle problems in the home. But as explained in our POWDERPOST BEETLE ARTICLE, most treatments will last several years and over this time knock out existing populations making it less likely to have another problem surface. And if the home has been pest free for 5 years or more and you don't plan on selling it for 3 or more years, clearly the "present value" of the contract will be notably less and maybe not worth the $150.00. Like other forms of insurance, many of us will usually fall on one side of the coverage: either we'll take full advantage of it getting more than our money's worth or we'll pay the premium year after year and never have one bad thing happen. The trick is knowing which policies to keep current and which to let expire without cause for alarm. If you ever figure out how to make this judgement, please let me know! But for now, my advise is to go with your instincts. Think it over and weigh both options carefully. And if you have further questions or concerns, give us a call on our toll free 1-800-877-7290 for some technical assistance.
Filed under service contracts by
I get the ceiling in the basement treated yearly for post powder beetles. Is this necessary? There hasn't been any evidence of the beetle in the last 5 yrs. Thanks for your help.
As explained in our POWDERPOST BEETLE ARTICLE, most all treatments will last a lot longer than one year. Are you sure there is actually any treatment going on or are you really paying for a "contract renewal" of some sort that will cover the cost of a treatment should it be deemed necessary to treat again? I know many companies will offer such annual renewals and most require a good inspection once a year as part of the contract. Find out from the company for sure just what it is they are doing and if you have further questions or concerns, please give us a call on our toll free 1-800-877-7290.
Filed under ceilings by
Hi,
I recently installed a new oak hardwood floor. It was raw wood which I stained (oil base) and finished with polyurethane. Shortly after, signs of powder post beetles were evident. Though it took me a week to figure out what the heck the little piles of sawdust were all about, I am now adamant to get rid of these buggers. I certainly do not want to refinish these floors, so I am curious about the Jecta Gel. Can I apply it in the pinhead size exit holes? Is the applicator that small?
Also, I've read that these adult beetles are looking to mate and then lay more eggs. If my floor is now finished with polyurethane would it be safe to say they probably would only go back into the holes they made? Would they create a new hole in finished wood?
And lastly does stain and polyurethane kill them? I had a thought that perhaps the stain and poly could possibly be driving the ones that weren't killed out and that these holes (there have been about 7 total in two weeks) would be the last I see of them. What do you think?
Thanks!!
As explained in our POWDER POST BEETLE CONTROL ARTICLE, hardwood floors can be tough to treat for powder post beetles. The activity you see right now are undoubtedly adults emerging as they complete their life cycle. Exit holes might present the most direct way to treat the wood without rigorous preparation and for now, I'd say you should use these exit holes to your advantage. As our article details, JECTA GEL or BAYGON AEROSOL would be viable options for any direct treatments including exit holes. The tip of the Baygon injecting nozzle is ideally suited for exit hole treatment; Jecta Gel has a nozzle/tip which is too wide to get the gel into most exit holes without waste and some mess. I like to drill exit holes larger prior to treating which enables me to get more gel into the hole for better coverage. You can still attempt to treat without drilling the flooring; expect some mess but if you are patient and willing to "push" in the gel with a spatula or some other tool it can be done. However, drilling larger, oversized holes is definitely a more effective approach.
If the floor is tight and the urethane "blankets" the entire area, it's most likely the only good spot for adults to lay eggs would be in previously made exit holes. However, in all the traditional oak hardwood flooring I've seen over the years, there are always gaps and spaces which powder post beetles can utilize if located by foraging adults. By design, traditional hardwood flooring will contract and expand with the season. In winter months, it typically contracts exposing subtle seams and spaces. These may be hard to see but to small insects like Powder Post Beetles, they present prime nest locations and are easy to find. I'd be surprised if there aren't any gaps in your flooring so be sure to inspect it carefully. If found, treat with either Baygon or Jecta Gel to eliminate them as prime nest locations.
Stain and urethane will kill most any insect when it's wet and being applied. Once dry, it won't have much effect on any insect pest – especially powder post beetles. So to answer your question; yes, either will kill the larvae stage of powder post beetles easily when being applied. And if you directly apply either to adults, you'd kill them too. But the eggs and pupae are a lot tougher to kill and generally don't come out in the open. For this reason it's not likely you'll be able to have much of an impact on them when using stain or urethane on your flooring. Even Jecta Gel or Baygon won't kill eggs or pupae; these products mostly effect larvae as they feed and since both provide long term residual in the treated wood, you can effectively protect your flooring when either are used. Stain and urethane loose their killing action once dry and typically don't penetrate deep when applied so they cannot reach the "heart" of the wood which is where larvae like to live.
In summary, I would at least treat exit holes and any gaps or seams I found in the flooring at this time. The Jecta Gel or Baygon should be used and I would expect any good treatment made now should make further infestation unobtainable. But keep in mind it could take another few months for all the hatching pupae to cycle down. In other words, don't expect all exit holes to cease being made following the treatment. As our article explains, the pupae are encased and cannot be killed with any liquid, aerosol or gel treatment so only after they hatch and emerge will you be effectively "done" with the local population. And if you've prepared any vulnerable wood with either treatment mentioned above, you should be able to stop them from continuing their cycle. If you have further questions or concerns, please give us a call on our toll free 1-800-877-7290.
Filed under wood floor by
I am from Ontario Canada, can boracare be sprayed in cold temperatures? It is ranging from 35 day – 20 night Fahrenheit. I am renovating an old building now and it has been gutted so it is easy to apply now.
According to the manufacturer, there is no minimum. Apparently the solvents and design of BORACARE enables it to be absorbed by treated wood right down to freezing temps. With that being said, I would have to add that the warmer the temps the easier it is to use and the faster you'll get absorption by the surfaces being sprayed. At least that's been my personal experience. I have used it down to 50 degrees and have not noted anything different but never tried any colder so I don't know about 35 degrees. Since you are treating inside, the exposed wood should be protected which to me means you should be able to get the same results. If you have further questions, give us a call on our toll free at 1-800-877-7290.
Filed under spraying by
